A Visual Guide to Styling Suits and Shoes
9 May 2022
With workwear rules becoming more relaxed, there are fewer excuses to put on a full tailored suit, which means it's easy to feel out of practice. One button or two? What colour shoes go with a blue suit?
As the season of celebrations arrives, these questions matter more. Nailing the right suit, shoe, and belt combination is the difference between looking the part and looking out of place. The good news: suit etiquette isn't complicated. It's a simple set of guidelines to help you co-ordinate with confidence, and it all comes down to getting your accessories right.
In This Guide:
- Whether you should wear a belt with a suit, and how to match it
- What shoe colours to wear with black, navy, and grey suits
- Oxford vs Derby shoes, and which to choose
- Other suit-friendly shoe styles
- A quick colour pairing table
- Frequently asked questions
Should You Wear a Belt with a Suit?
You don't always need a belt, but when you do, one rule rarely fails: match your belt to your shoes, not your suit. Grained leather shoes call for a grained leather belt; brown suede shoes call for a brown suede belt. Keeping the leather finish and tone consistent is the easiest way to look polished without overthinking it.
What Shoes to Wear with a Suit
Black Suits
Keep it simple: black suit, black shoes, black belt.
Navy Suits
Navy is versatile. Black shoes look smart and formal, while dark brown or burgundy shoes add warmth without breaking any rules.
Grey Suits
Grey pairs well with most browns, from tan to dark chocolate, as well as black. Lighter greys suit lighter browns; charcoal can carry darker shoes.
Oxford or Derby Shoes?
Oxford Shoes
An Oxford shoe has "closed" lacing — the eyelet flaps are stitched shut with the tongue underneath, giving a sleek, streamlined look. It's the go-to for formal and black-tie occasions.
Derby Shoes
A Derby shoe has "open" lacing — the eyelet flaps sit on top of the tongue, giving a slightly more relaxed look and a more flexible fit. It suits business-casual settings well.
Other Shoe Styles for Suits
Loafers offer a slip-on alternative that works well for summer weddings and smart-casual events. Brogues add decorative perforated detailing to an Oxford or Derby base, great for daytime or business-casual wear, though slightly less formal than a plain toe.
Oxford
Derby
Frequently Asked Questions
Do brown shoes go with a black suit? No, black suits call for black shoes and a black belt.
Can you wear loafers with a suit? Yes, for smart-casual or semi-formal events. Oxfords remain the traditional choice for black-tie.
What's the difference between an Oxford and a Derby shoe? Oxfords have closed lacing for a sleek look; Derbies have open lacing for a more relaxed fit.
Should your belt match your suit or your shoes? Your belt should match your shoes, not necessarily your suit.
Final Thoughts
Once you understand the basics, matching your belt to your shoes, choosing the right shoe colour for your suit, and picking the right silhouette for the occasion, the rest falls into place. Whether you reach for Oxfords, Derbies, or loafers, the right pairing will always help your suit look sharper.
