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The Goodyear-Welt

Posted by Jones Bootmaker on

The Goodyear-Welt

The Goodyear-Welt, the hallmark of well-made shoes, exemplifying superior craftsmanship steeped in rich British heritage, serving an extraordinary story with every pair made.

The Goodyear-Welt sewing machine was created by Charles Goodyear Jr in 1869 in Northampton, the shoemaking capital of the world. The invention of this machine meant shoes could be constructed more efficiently than the slow craft of hand-stitch. 

The Goodyear Welt Diagram

What is the Goodyear Welt?

The Goodyear-Welted construction improves the strength and durability of a shoe, where a strip of leather, called the welt, is stitched to the bottom edge of the shoe, binding the upper leather, leather lining and welt to the bonded insole through stitch, the welt is then stitched to the sole to hold it in place.

Goodyear Welt Diagram
The Goodyear-Welt stitch runs around the outside of the sole rather than piercing under the foot, maximising the shoe's water-resistance and reducing the chance of a leaking shoe. In most instances, cork is used between the insole and the outsole, a natural shock-absorber that both insulate the feet whilst providing effective ventilation.

Why invest in a Goodyear Welted shoe?

Long-Lasting Wear

A Goodyear-Welt machine runs a lockstitch through the upper, insole and welt and a dual stitch to the outsole of the shoe. The double stitch means that the shoe is twice as resilient to your average shoe.


A sustainable choice, a Goodyear Welted shoe can be re-soled and repaired to continue its journey into a new chapter, consider it the antidote to fast fashion. A shoe that has been re-soled has the potential to be more comfortable than when bought new, as worn leather uppers will have moulded to fit around the foot’s form, allowing for a more bespoke and comfortable fit.

Timeless style

Goodyear-Welted shoes are constructed with longevity, making a fine investment piece for years to come, as such, you will never find yourself in a style faux-pas where a Goodyear Welted shoe is concerned.

British Craftsmanship

The Goodyear Welt technique has travelled across the world, but Northampton is still considered to be the true home of the Goodyear Welt. Northamptonshire is the birthplace to significant men’s shoemakers such as Loake, Cheaney Shoes, and Barker Shoes.


The Goodyear Welted Collection

Discover the quality behind the craftsmanship with the extensive Goodyear Welt collection online and in-store.
Goodyear Welt Leather Oxford Brogue   Goodyear Welted Men's Leather Derby Shoe   Leather Derby Shoe  Goodyear Welted Leather Oxford Brogue
Goodyear Welted Men's Leather Chukka Boot  Goodyear Welted Leather Chelsea Boot  Men's Goodyear Welt Leather Chukka Boot   Goodyear Welt Leather Brogue Ankle Boot   

Leather Shoe Care Guide

Caring for your Goodyear Welted Shoes

  • Goodyear-Welted shoes can be a little tricky to break-in, we recommend rubbing a little bee’s wax onto the inside of the heel so soften up the lining and reduce the risk of blisters.
  • Try out your shoes in dry conditions on the first few wears, fine grit on leather soles will build a barrier against moisture and increase the lifespan of your shoes.
  • Invest in some good quality shoe polish and conditioning cream; not only to keep you looking dapper - but it will build up a protective layer against typical British weather.
  • Wearing your shoes on consecutive days can cause damage. Make sure you give them a rest between wears, to help dry them out from rain and any perspiration.

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